Dress Shirt: Spread collar vs Point collar?

When designing a dress shirt, how do you choose between a spread collar and a point collar?
Choosing the type of collar that is most suited to you and your style can be tricky, here are a few variant factors to make your choice easier!
The two most common worn collar styles for a dress shirt are the Spread and the Point Collar. When choosing a collar, it is good to think about how you will be wearing it, mostly with a tie? Or are you looking for a shirt that transition well into a casual look?
Which collar most suits your face shape?
What type of tie will you be wearing? Is it for a tuxedo shirt where you might wear a bow tie? Here are a few pointers on how to choose your collar.

Spread collars

A spread collar is made to have wider collar points. Compared to a point Collar, the spread is angled outwards instead of pointing down.  It is paired well with a full or half Windsor tie knot or if you are designing a tuxedo shirt and you want to wear a bow tie.  This is a modern twist to traditional attire.

We have three different types of spread collars varying on the angle of the collar point.

  • The Semi Cutaway
  • The medium Cutaway
  • Full Cutaway

When choosing the type of cutaway it is good to consider how you might accessories your shirt with and for what occasion. If you are wearing a tie every day a medium or a full cutaway gives more room for the tie knot and gives a more formal look. It is also a nice option to do a full cutaway with a bowtie if you are designing a tux shirt or planning to wear your shirt to a wedding or an event.

The Semi cutaway is very popular as it looks great with a tie and also transitions well into a more casual look, for instance without a tie and unbuttoned.

Semi Cutaway

Cutaway

Full Cutaway

 

 

Point Collars

A point collar has a narrower distance than a spread between the two collar points. When it is buttoned up all the way, it is a smaller enclosure for the tie knot. It is a more traditional style and remains a very classic look. When unbuttoned, the collar holds a nice shape and transitions well into casual attire.

We do three different types of forward points; this is depending on the size of the collar.

  • Forward Point
  • Small forward point
  • Slim forward point

A forward point is one of the most traditional collars; it looks great with a tie and without, can work well as a formal shirt along with a casual, the small forward point is a nice balance of modern and formal as the collar is slightly smaller than a regular forward point.

You would typically choose a slim forward point when designing a casual shirt, as the collar is smaller and is harder to fit a tie, however it looks great if you are looking for something more modern.

Forward Point

Small Forward Point

Slim Forward Point

 

How to choose the best collar for your face shape

It can be difficult to choose the right collar for your face shape, and to know what is the most flattering.

If you have a more rounded jaw line, Narrow forward point collars help to elongate and thin out the face. The best style collars are the forward point or the slim forward point, equally for a more casual look the button down or concealed button down is a good alternative.

Equally For a square jaw line, the forward point collars are better whereas a diamond or Oblong shape face suit the wider more spread collars; you need the cutaway or full cutaway to give your face the appearance of fullness and the jaw line to appear wider.

 

 

How To Wear Linen Shirts

Linen shirts are staple classics for any summer wardrobe, but it might be hard to navigate exactly how to wear it. There are more ways than one to style a linen shirt, and we are happy give you the scoop!

The Casual Linen Look

Casual linen is easy. Opt for a soft button down collar and a simple pocket. The American placket makes it even more casual. Wear it untucked with your favorite shorts, a pair of khakis, or white jeans. It’s a great excuse to choose a bright color, as the light fabric tones it down, and the look itself is already simple. Get the mint green linen shirt here!

The Uniform Linen Look

A soft and light fabric like linen is a great contrast to a uniform look. Choose shoulder straps and double breasted pockets, for the uniform look, and wear just as well unbuttoned with a white T-shirt underneath. Pick an neutral hue like this sandy beige, and pair it with earthly colored pants. Get it here!

The Contrasted Linen Look

Feeling trendy? Get a deep blue linen shirt with a flower contrast on the inside. This type of linen shirt is at its best when it is short sleeved, and paired with denim shorts or pants. Top it off with some dapper sunglasses, and your look is complete. Get it here!

Want Styling Help? Book Your Appointment Here!

The Bar/Bat Mitzvah Dress Code

When you are invited to be a guest at a Bar or Bat Mitzvah, it might be difficult to know know what the dress code is. A Bar or Bat Mitzvah, is the celebration of jewish boys and girls coming of age, a ceremony that takes place around the age of thirteen. It is quite traditional, and a major event! Usually the event is set as formal or semi formal, which is a good indicator for what you should wear. Here is a quick look!

The Formal Bar/Bat Mitzvah Dress Code

 

Formal dress code mar bat mitzvah

Formal dress code bar bat mitzvah

 

At conservative bar/bat mitzvahs, a suit or a sport jacket is generally called for. Opt for a formal white dress shirt. A bright colored tie is welcomed, but be careful with loud prints. If you want to be safe, choose a plain silk tie, or a even a bow tie. You are welcome to wear cufflinks as an extra detail, however, this is not mandatory. Notice how you can add contrast details to the interior collar, that will only be visible while the collar is unbuttoned!

The Semi Formal Bar/Bat Mitzvah Dress Code

 

Semi formal dress code bar bat mitzvah

Semi formal dress code bar bat mitzvah blue

For more liberal bar/bat mitzvahs, which tends to often be a semi formal event, a shirt, slacks, and dress shoes will do the job. You can easily wear a colored shirt. Our examples is first a multicolored gingham in faded green and blue, which offers some differentiation to a normal dress shirt. During the summer season, a subtle print can certainly be worn, and we encourage you to try something different, by adding contrast to your interior collar!

For The Bar/Bar Mitzvah Guest Of Honor

ManuelRacim monogram styles dress code bar bat mitzvah

 

If you are attending a Bar Mitzvah, which is the celebration for boys, a made-to-measure shirt might just be the perfect gift, as it can be a memory for life. At ManuelRacim, the shirt can not only be customized with contrast fabrics and threading, but also with a monogram or a message, to remember the special day.

 

Book An Appointment Here!

French Cuff vs Buttoned Cuff

A frequently asked question is when to wear a French cuff and when to wear a buttoned cuff. It might not be as hard to answer as you’d think, but there are several helpful guidelines to finding a style for your dress shirts that you are comfortable with.

French Cuff

Here is some basic information. The French cuff is also referred to as a double cuff, because the fabric of it is folded over, and has two layers. You will also need cufflinks in order to wear this style. There are also other types of cuffs that can be worn with a cufflink.

French Cuff

So when can you actually wear this style? While it is a common choice for a tuxedo shirt, the answer is that you can wear French cuffs whenever you want. It is an appropriate look for office wear, it allows you to customize your outfit, and dress it up or down as you wish. Wear a sharp pair of antique cufflinks when you dress to impress, and stick with casual silk knots for an average Tuesday at work. Feel free to skip the tie! Read more about how to wear French cuffs with no tie here.

french cuffs look

Buttoned Cuff

The buttoned cuff is more commonly used, as it is easier to wear. This look doesn’t need much explanation, it’s a barrel cuff, attached with one or more buttons, normally available in different finishes, such as square, round or notched.

Buttoned CuffA buttoned cuff can be used whenever, but you might want to give some more thought to the rest of the details as you wear it, so your outfit isn’t too simple. Choose a fresh fabric, or style your look with a sharp tie and a pocket square. If you get custom shirts, you can choose colored buttons for the shirt design, or a contrast fabric on the inside of the cuff, in order to add a subtle flair.

Buttoned Cuff Look

Which Look Is Your Favorite?

The 4 Outfit Essentials For Men This Summer

Summer is officially here, and there are a few key outfit essentials every man needs to be properly prepared! We have gathered our favorites from American and and French craft, to make sure you are ready for the best season of the year.

The Linen Shirt

Skjermbilde 2016-06-22 kl. 13.23.47

No man should ever face summer without a proper linen shirt. Naturally, we prefer our own ManuelRacim, and this pinstriped blue is our summer favorite! Priced at $235. Get it here.

White Chinos

Skjermbilde 2016-06-22 kl. 12.57.09

Memorial day has passed, and the white pants are back. We say wear them while you can, and our favorite are the chinos from Ralph Lauren, priced at $125. Get it here

Espadrilles

Skjermbilde 2016-06-22 kl. 12.40.31

While the white sneaker trend of last year does indeed continue, here is another great shoe that can be worn both casual and semi formal. The black leather espadrilles from Saint Laurent is high up on our wish list, and priced at $395. Get it here.

The Getaway Bag

Skjermbilde 2016-06-22 kl. 13.22.34

For this year’s getaway bag, we are all about classic Horween American Bison leather. Priced at $625, the Jackson Duffle Bag from Trask will hold everything you need to bring with you for a quick weekend away, and last year after year. Get it here.

 

3 Blue Dress Shirts That Save Your Outfit

You have blue, white, pink and patterned dress shirts, but putting together an outfit, and suiting up in the morning, can sometimes be difficult. You make so many other decisions throughout the day, that color combinations and accessorizing do not deserve top priority. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t opt to look your best. Here are 3 different blue (and not so boring) shirts that will easily save any outfit.

 

The Blue Striped Shirt

Blue striped dress shirt

A blue striped shirt is a wardrobe staple, and a safe choice for any shade of blue or grey suit. The shirt has a cutaway collar, a single barrel notched cuff, and minimal detailing. Wear it with a windsor tie knot, easily style the look with a brown belt and matching shoes, and the outfit is a winner.

The Blue Gingham ShirtBlue micro checked dress shirt

The dark blue micro gingham shirt has a few more casual details, but can be just as sophisticated. At the office, this shirt is worn best with a four in hand tie and a charcoal or navy suit. For happy hour, let the tie go and sport a relaxed unbuttoned collar.

The Blue Friday Shirt

turquoise contrasted gingham dress shirt

No tie needed for this look! The blue turquoise gingham shirt is contrasted with a solid color in the same hue, on the inside of the collar and cuff. Start the weekend off right, and wear this shirt with a pair of gray slacks, and an unbuttoned collar. Casual Friday never looked this good. 

4 Effortless Ways For a Guy To Improve The Everyday Look!

There are are plenty of ways for a guy to improve his everyday look, hence be more attractive, and it is not necessarily a long process at all, but rather a few quick tricks to use throughout a day! Add small habits into your routine and make a big change!

Care about the details of your look

The details matter gentlemen. Put a pocket square in your jacket. Sport a tie clip. Wear your favorite watch. Polish your shoes. make sure your suit is pressed. It is all the small things accumulated that improve the presentation!

care about details

Take a look in the mirror

You might think that the ladies are a tad too eager to look themselves in the mirror, but you’d be better off following their lead to a certain extent. It’s worth checking every once in a while that your hair still looks good, that there’s nothing in your teeth, your tie is straight, and there are no stains to be spotted.

Look in the mirror

Take pointers from guys on the street

You can take pointers on do’s and don’ts regarding fashion pretty much everywhere you go, specially if you live in New York! Take time to observe the people around you, see what works and get inspiration for dressing from the people who do it best; The New Yorkers.

Skjermbilde 2016-06-02 kl. 10.30.37

Dress yourself – Own your look

Your clothes are a big part of your identity, which is why it should come from you, and not your significant other. Take style advice from both men and women, but make sure to have the last word in what you eventually wear. You’ll feel more comfortable and purposely dressed.

dress yourself

How To Suit Up For A Wedding

The wedding season is up, and many gents are wondering how to suit up for the occasion! There are plenty of ways to crack the code and look your appropriate best for the newlyweds!

Pay attention to the invitation!

The invitation you receive to a wedding will include an indicator of what attire is appropriate for the evening. Pay attention to key words such as “black tie” or formal. Here are the most common dress codes for weddings, and how to sport them all!

The Black Tie Wedding

Black Tie Wedding

The ladies will be wearing goings, and you want to opt for a tuxedo for this occasion. Choose between a tie or a bow tie, and add a black vest to obtain the full look. The boldest gents can replace the vest with a cummerbund. For a summer wedding, you might be able to wear a black suit instead of a tuxedo. Our recommended shirt look is either a bib, or a covered placket.

The Semi Formal Wedding

Skjermbilde 2016-05-25 kl. 22.26.47

While you still want to opt for a formal suit and tie at a semi formal wedding, the time of the event can be a great indicator. If the reception is set in the evening, make sure to wear dark colors, and a dark tie as well. For a daytime reception, feel free to sport some lighter colors. A normal white dress shirt with a french or american placket will suffice for this attire.

The Casual Wedding

Skjermbilde 2016-05-25 kl. 22.34.11

You are welcome to, but not obligated to wear a tie for this one! Sport some dress pants or khaki’s with a light shirt and a blazer or a sport jacket, choose a casual tie or wear your collar button open!

How To Wash A Dress Shirt

How do you wash a dress shirt? For all you gentlemen out there who prefer to take care of business yourself, rather than sending your shirts for washing or dry-cleaning, here is a break-down of how to best wash your cotton dress-shirts!

Pre-treat stains

Stains are not going to remove themselves, specially as a dress shirt generally should be washed on a low temperature. Pre-treat any stain by scrubbing it with stain remover, detergent, or dish soap, then let it sit for about 30 minutes, before washing. Pay extra attention to the collar as it might have sweat marks that need to be removed.

close up of white shirt and red lipstick on it

 

Collar stays

Always remove collar stays before washing! First of all, they might disappear in the washer. Second of all, the collar wings might warp around the collar stays and create a weird shape. Third of all, the collar stay might leave a trace at the surface of the collar. Enough said.

Skjermbilde 2016-05-11 kl. 12.26.17

 

Use the right laundry detergent

It goes without saying that you should divide the different colors of a shirt. But then you must choose a good detergent that protects the color of the shirts as well. Do not ever use a detergent with bleach ever, unless it is for washing white shirts, as the color of the shirt might fade.

Pouring softerner for loundry in waching machine

 

Use the right washing cycle

A dress shirt should be washed on a delicate or cold cycle, generally for about 30 minutes. If you wash the shirt on a higher temperature then you might experience that the shirts shrink beyond what is expected, as cotton is a fiber that shrinks when exposed to warm water.

wash cycle delicate

 

Finish the right way

Hang dry your shirts. The best way is to put them on hangers to avoid unnecessary creasing. The shirts do not have to be entirely dry before you iron them, you might find that it is easier to even our the creases on a slightly moist cotton shirt. But please, do not put the shirts in the dryer, and if you really have to, then this should be on the lowest temperature possible.

hang dry shirts

Poplin, End-on-End, Oxford: Your Ultimate Summer Weaves

Buying a dress shirt is one thing, but there are plenty of types of weaves and patterns. So how do you know what which fabric to look for while shopping your summer shirts? ManuelRacim explains it all!

The Poplin Shirt

The poplin weave, also commonly referred to as broadcloth, is the most standard shirt texture, and is woven in a simple criss cross pattern. It breathes very well and is the perfect fabric to wear under a suit during summer season. Because the fabric is so light at hand, it looks good with a striped or gingham pattern.

Poplin Shirt Blue

The End-On-End Shirt

The end-on-end shirt is the same as a poplin, but woven with two or more colors, for a two-toned appearance. An end-on-end weave allows for a fabric to look interesting up close, while maintaining the look of a solid shirt.

end on end weave shirt

The Oxford Shirt

The Oxford shirt feels much more textured at hand than other fabrics. It has interlacing warp and weft threads that forms into a basket weave, and is popular for more casual shirts, because of its aesthetics. A solid fabric will have a nice casual look, while a patterned shirt will have a nice color pop.

Oxford weave shirt

Wedding Season: The Satin Shirt

A satin weave does not have to be shiny! On the contrary, a charmeuse satin weave has a dull surface, but looks more dense than a normal poplin shirt, even if it’s just as thin. Whether you are tying the knot with your special someone, or plan to go to a wedding during this upcoming season, this is your perfect go-to shirt.

Satin Weave Shirt